I arrived in Los Angeles on Wednesday morning. It’s now Thursday evening and I’m about to spend my second consecutive night in a bed that is not traveling at 40 to 60 miles per hour. It’s true what they say about taking the small things for granted until you don’t have them. A bed. That isn’t hurtling through the night in the middle of nowhere. Great thing. Really.
And, although I have come to the difficult conclusion that I have failed in my attempt to prove that long distance travel via train is preferable to the same trip via plane, I can say that I do not regret the experiment. Yes, I better appreciate a stationary bed, but I also gained some insights into what trains need to do to compete with planes, and how we should consider our transportation choices.
The most obvious problem with choosing the train for a long haul is cost. For what I spent to travel on three difference trains chugging along tracks that were out of repair for three days and for three nights, I could have flown first-class on any airline and arrived at the same place in six hours. If I flew coach, I would have spent about $600 less. If I took the train and rode coach, I it would have cost less than $300, so could be a little cheaper than the plane, but I would have been sitting in the middle of a college reunion. It looked like hell for old folks back there. I knew starting out that there was a big price and time disadvantage, but, I reckoned, I’ll have more time to meditate, read, interact with people of a similar mind, and, you know, just SLOW DOWN.
Well, I slowed down. And I’ve concluded that hell might just be a place where you go very, very slow for many, many days and nights surrounded by civil servants who hate the “servant” part of their jobs. Now that I think of it, they’re not too crazy about the “civil” part either. The other passengers,? Not my demographic. A few of them: not even my planet. To paraphrase an old Red Smith line: If God had meant for us to go that slow, and carry that much luggage, around that many terminals, for that many days, he would have made sure we were born with wheels and a caboose. There were Red Caps around, but not enough of them, and not helpful enough. Not civil or servant enough.
As I said, I wanted to prove that the train is superior, so the thought that immediately arose in my head when I realized we had crossed the California state line was not welcome: “Thank God it’s over.” I knew I would write the blog, but how do I spin that to sound good? No denying or spinning it, the thought was there, and it was insistent. I looked out the window of my prison cell sized compartment, saw a row of palm trees silhouetted majestically against a beautiful red sunrise sky, and I knew we were close. I checked my clock: 6am. The Southwest Chief was due into LA Union station at 8:15am. Life was good. Though I was hungry, I remembered it was too late for breakfast. Henry Ford, my porter/conductor informed us the night before that we were to get to the dining car between 5am and 6am for breakfast or we would be out of luck. There were a lot of Amish on the train, so I expect they made it, but I can’t imagine a normal human being could stagger along the narrow passageways in the semi darkness at that time of day and then keep food down. Alright, no breakfast, but, so what, just two more blessed hours and I would be free from the loud speaker tyranny of government employees and the claustrophobic confines of this rolling hell hole. California here I come!
But it wouldn’t be that easy. Henry Ford came on the loud speaker to announce that we would be making a short stop in San Bernardino. As usual, he reminded us that there was time for a cigarette (then he does coughing noises, very funny) or to stretch your legs. But you better be on the train when it pulls out. He also made a pitch for the opportunity to take a photo of the beautiful San Bernardino train station.
I saw it from my window, and thought, heck I have to take a shot of that. I get off the train with my iPhone camera. Say good morning to Henry who was standing right at the door. Walk thirty steps to position myself in front of the station and take two quick shots. I turn around and the train is pulling out. Without me! I flashed back to Silver Streak and all the great laughs from Gene Wilder trying to get back on a training that was leaving without him. I ran after the train thinking that surely my pal Henry Ford would have noticed I wasn’t on the train. I was only off for sixty seconds!! But, no, the train was moving steadily down the track and out of sight. My personal belongings and my computer (which is my job!) were rapidly moving out of sight on a train that had people who were not of my planet aboard. Panic was starting to set in, and I checked my watch: 6:30am. I tried to calm down and thought, you just have to get to Union Station. Good old Henry will turn your stuff in. Don’t’ worry.
San Bernardino is a big commuter stop. Not like the stops on the prairie where Henry has previously threatened to toss out smokers. I learned that the next train to LA was leaving in a minute, and that, furthermore, it arrived at Union Station at 8am. Fifteen minutes before the Southwest Chief! I bought a ticket for $10 (I had my wallet!) and boarded the commuter train. Great service, nice car, filled with people who had jobs, glided by the famous LA traffic jams. Arrived at Union Station on time, found the track where the Southwest Chief was coming in,:Track 12, way the hell over in the farthest part of the mammoth station, and there I was waiting at the track 10 minutes before the train, my train that I had been on for more than 40 hours, would arrive. Amazing!
My head was full of revenge fantasies pointed at Henry Ford. I had settled on a nasty letter to the head of whoever is in charge of whatever. But when Henry got off the train, greeted me with a big smile and asked, “How did you get off the train so fast?” I mellowed, and replied, “You left me in San Bernardino. I took the Metrolink here.” He apologized profusely, and assured me that my stuff was okay in my compartment. I wasn’t so sure, but he was right. Crisis averted.
I made my laborious way back to the baggage claim (really a huge station), claimed my bags, got a taxi, got in the traffic jam (which goes both ways somehow. At least in NJ it usually goes in only one direction.) Arrived in Santa Monica and sat down at a desk that wasn’t moving, in a chair that wasn’t moving, and drank a Coke that wasn’t spilling.
In a nutshell, my experiment showed that the trains are running on crappy tracks. The service people are nice, but they just don’t know what service is. And the pricing is not competitive. And the advantage of SLOWING DOWN doesn’t wash when you are going mad from loud speaker announcements and views from a window that shows landscapes, thought quite beautiful, crawling by. Really, I don’t think Andrew Carnegie traveling from Pittsburgh to LA in 1884 went any slower than we did.
I still believe that if we build an infrastructure to support local and regional rail we might someday be able to accomplish long haul travel. In the meantime, we will be creating good jobs and working toward energy independence and sustainable practices. Europe, where rail service is often impeccable, is a great model for local and regional service, but they don’t have the challenges of distance that we have in America. I think it will be a while yet before the airlines are threatened by the trains. But we can start converting our auto commuter culture to a train commuter right now. Hire GM, Ford and Chrysler. Let the Japanese and the Germans have the unsustainable auto business. They are taking it anyway. I’ll have more thoughts and evidence to support that in subsequent posts.
In the meantime, happy motoring….